6 July: The Russian Bathhouse

6 May 2013

The only thing keeping me away as I sit here trying to write this post are the dogs barking to each other throughout the neighborhood.  It is only 12:51am (only!) but it has been a BUSY day.  It has also been my last full day in Tbilisi.  I leave tomorrow afternoon.

Our final lecture this morning was on Public Management.  Nino Dolidze of GIPA spoke to us on the basic models of public management management and the history of public management in Georgia.  Her lecture was interesting, particularly the portion dedicated to the development and evolution of public management in Georgia.  I particularly noted the following: 1) All three of Georgia's presidents (since its inception as a modern state) were initially popular BUT lost public support after sometime in service.  Nino rhetorically asked "Why don't Georgians elect the right leaders?  Are they irrational?"  2) Sakaashvili is famousfor slimming down the public sector through various reforms (particularly in the educational and law enforcement sectors).

What I really want to write quickly about, however, was my trip to the Russian baths in Old Tbilisi.  Kristin, Melissa and I ventured down into the depths of the bathhouse and were bossed about in Russian by large women with whom you don't want to argue.  And with whom I could not argue anyway since I know about 20 words total in both Russian and Georgian.  I was scrubbed, washed, and soaked.  I can't say it was my most enjoyable public bath experience but it was definitely a Nastya/Jamila/Malaika/Megumi-worthy experience.  I suppose I had better explain why it was not my favorite bath experience.  My companions wanted a private room so I missed out on the common room experience which, I have found, can be very fun.  Mind you, the "private room" was far from fancy; it was, in fact, quite dingy, dungeon-like, and even a bit dirty--a circumstance which also dropped the rating off the experience.  The private room may have been necessary, however, because we could not seem to figure out if was mixed gender or not. If so, I'd have had a problem since I had no bathing suit. So--it was what it was.  I've been multiple times to public baths in the Middle East and Japan and those experiences were somehow less stressful, more cultural, and overall physically and emotionally satisfying.

However--an adventure!  As always.  We also enjoyed glorious polyphonic singing in the the 6th century Anchiskhati Church (finally got inside on my third visit), crossed the river on the "Peace Bridge," went to the new cathedral built by Ivanishivili, and eventually ended up at a fancy restaurant with gorgeous views for our final dinner.  Delicious!  Crazy too-loud musical entertainment to which we danced and a few performances of traditional Georgian dancing.  We made merry and made many toasts (I toasted to the "A" we will all get in the course :-) ).  A fabulous end to an immensely enjoyable two weeks! This will be my last post.  Tomorrow morning, after spending time with Thea and Liza, I hope to find a congregation of my church that is supposedly located in Tbilisi.  Wish me luck.  Kristin and I fly to Istanbul in the early evening and will spend the night and the next morning enjoying more of Istanbul.  Monday afternoon, right before the beginning of Ramadan, we will fly home (whew!  How terrible to be in Istanbul but unable to eat the delicious food! :-) ).

Off to bed!  Excited to see my darling husband and babies soon.  I also want to acknowledge dear Marliss (and all those who helped her) for her care of my girls during my absence.  Farewell, Tbilisi! Until we meet again.

5 July 2013: Fajitas and Jazz in Tbilisi

5 July 2013

I am a student in the George Mason University Masters of Global Affairs Program.  One program requirement is to choose a specialization among conflict and security, global health, global economics, global governance, global education, etc. Another program requirement is to take GLOA 710, a course that is given annually during the summer and is always a two-week study abroad.  Two years ago GLOA 710 was held in China and last year it was in Argentina.  A student may choose to attend whichever summer he or she wishes before graduating from the program.  I was in Amman last summer and may (who knows?) be moving abroad in 2014, so I figured it would make the best sense to enroll in GLOA 710 this summer.  The fact that it would take place in Eastern Europe was, for me, and added bonus.

The program schedule has featured lectures on various topics.  While they have been largely focused on conflict and security issues, we have been treated to several lectures and tours on Georgian culture.  Today, our second-to-last day, we learned about Georgian film and Georgian public health. 

We went directly to the Georgian National Film Center this morning.  We learned about the history, funding, and goals of the Georgian film industry.  The industry is small but partners with various European film markets and forums.  Georgian films are not "commercial"; they are almost exclusively artistic and cultural.  Our lecturer assured us that Georgian films (which cost between 5-600,000 USD to make!!) are always dramatic and heavy.  That matches my impression of the two Georgian movies I have seen--"Repentance" and "Street Days."  "Street Days" dealt with a grave topic (drug addiction) but was fast-paced and, at times, humorous.  The lecture included the names of several successful films released during 2012-3 and so I hope to watch and judge them for myself. 

As it happens, Thea's professional background is in film and as the assistant dean of a department in a local university she used to write film critiques.  She no longer writes reviews, however, because she is tired of feeling constrained by the Georgian tradition of politeness.  Since everyone knows each other in Georgia, it is unthinkable to actually publicly critique each other.  Thea gave as an example a 2010 Georgian film whose name I just omitted.  She did not enjoy the movie and was unable to critique it because the daughter of the director goes to her daughter Liza's school!  To emphasize her point she pulled out her mobile phone and showed us a picture of the director' daughter sitting at the very table at which we were sitting.  (Furthermore, in my original publication of this post I included the name of the film and its link in IMDB; however over breakfast this morning Thea, who read my blog earlier, asked me to take the name of the film out of the post, for fear the director might google it and come across this post and her name). Thea, and her friends with whom we had this conversation, seemed to think it a shame that Georgians are culturally bound to politeness but I find that charming.  I am not sure how far Americans' sense of entitlement to rudeness has gotten us.

Our second lecture of the day was on public health in Georgia.  Among the particular public health challenges Georgia faces, one that interests me is the relatively high infant mortality rate. Our lecturer assured us that all pregnant Georgian women receive prenatal care and are attended by trained OBs at deliver and yet more babies die at birth than are expected.  Possibly the quantity of care is low?

As an American, I was not surprised by the politicized nature of the Georgian health care system.  Health care privatized in Georgia with the Rose Revolution and the conservative Sakaashvili's rise power, with only the poorest receiving government assistance with premiums. The system is becoming more universal and socialist under Ivanshivili's government.

A final point of interest is Georgia's health care policy for immigrants: it has none.  Immigrants must pay for private insurance.  I intend to contact our lecturer again via email and ask for information--if it exists--on Egyptian immigrants and health care.  Do they purchase insurance or pay for care out of pocket?  Out of curiosity I will want to find out what options immigrants to America have for health care?  I am woefully ignorant on this topic.

While our lectures were interesting I must admit that the best part of my day began after class.  We met Thea at a large grocery store not far from our lecture and we shopped for the indigents to a meal we planned to cook for Thea and her friends.  While returning to Thea's apartment after shopping, Thea seemingly spontaneously put in a CD of music by her friend, Tamta.  The moment I heard her voice I knew I needed to know more about her because my husband would most definitely LOVE a copy of her CD.  (Nate LOVES jazzy female singers).  I examined the CD cover and insert closely and resolved to ask Thea later how I could get my own copy.

We arrived at Thea's and she left us to go up to her flat alone while she and Liza made a quick errand down the street.  When we stepped out of the elevator on the 7th floor we saw standing in front of Thea's flat none other than the singer--Tamta!  Ha!  It turns out Thea had invited her to our soirée tonight and decided to surprise us.  And surprised we were!

After inductions, Kristin and I sent Thea off to relax and chat with Tamta while we got to work making fajitas, tortillas, cookies and peach crisp from scratch.  It took over two hours!  We were joined by Georgi, Nino, and Eka and soon the kitchen was full and we cooked and talked politics as fast as we could.  

Finally, all was ready but before dining we took a break and had a concert.  As it happens, Tamta and Nino are both from Abkhazia and childhood friends.  Tamta is obviously a musician but her mother is, too, and she was Nino's piano teacher.  Nino mentioned to me that her dream is to study/teach piano theory but I had no idea she is such a natural at the piano. Tamta and Nino claimed to not have performed together "in years" and yet they whipped out number after number.  Nino would begin each number hesitantly at first...feeling out the intro to the song...and then play the whole thing beautifully as though she had the music right in front of her.  Needless to say, both Nino and Tamta performed beautifully and with grace without a single sheet of music, song after song.  English, Georgian, French, Russian--most of it jazz but a classical number or two thrown into the mix.  Watch her here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8EURa4z3rRU&sns=em .  Nino and Tanta are amazing!  As I sat, listening to their gorgeous sound, I felt, for the millionth time, how blessed I am to have this experience of coming to Georgia and getting to know her people.

Thea and her friends have known each other for years.  During the dark days of the mid-1990s they would gather at Thea's old apartment in the city center, because hers was the only one among all their flats that had electricity, and huddle together for warmth during the winters.  They huddled under umbrellas because the roof leaked.  They sang, talked, exchanged ideas--a regular salon.  On any given day she had at least ten fellow university students with her there under her leaking roof.  Sitting with this group of best of friends, 15 years later, was a true honor.  I am grateful Thea opened her life to us during these two short weeks.  And it is almost over!  Tomorrow is our last full day.

4 July 2013: Happy Independence Day to Egypt?

4 July 2013

Talk about timely.  Probably at the very moment I was speaking to the Egyptians in front of the Catholic church in Tbilisi on Wednesday the coup was in motion.  I only learned about it this morning (Thursday) shortly before leaving on our day trip.  I opened a few articles on my iPad and Kristin and I read up as much on it as possible during our two hour bus ride.  It is interesting to note that some news sources are calling it a coup while others are hesitant to use that word.  Moursy was apparently given a 48 deadline by the military to 1) regain control of the country (BBC) or 2) meet the demands of opposition (CNN).  Slightly different spin.  CNN's coverage seemed more sympathetic to Moursy and the Muslim Brotherhood, depicting the anti-Moursy raids on the Brotherhood in slightly condemning tones.  BBC's spin gave legitimacy to Moursy's ouster.  

Egypt did not/does not have the proper institutions in place necessary for a problem-free democratic political transition.  Surely.  And yet I am saddened that Egyptians have lost their chance to collectively express their displeasure with Moursy and remove him from power democratically.  Could they have done it? Would the Brotherhood have conceded defeat if, indeed, the popular vote was against their candidate?  We will never know.  I am anxious for Egyptians to voluntarily refrain from rioting so that casualties are low and we can start this process once again.  Military transitional rule, campaigns, new elections.  NO repeat (hopefully).

I am intrigued to see these events will influence the outcome of my paper for this class. All those I interviewed expressed the desire to return to Egypt and declared the intention to do so if policies regarding minorities changed.  There  is always the possibility that the right candidate will present him (or her!) self and unite moderate and fundamentalist Muslims in a way that allows for equal rights for Christians.  And yet a coup is not exactly an indicator of a positive change and I expect Georgia's Egyptian diaspora will remain here for the time being IF Georgia will let them.  The folks I met at the church yesterday explained that visas must be renewed annually and that Georgia's once welcoming visa-free regime is tightening.  My new Coptic friends told me that the worry that their visas may not be renewed hangs over them, considering the investment they have made to come and set up businesses here.  Someone within their community may be in a position to assume control over (for example) their little store but still--the lost of time and money to the immigration project would be tragic.

As for the events of my day--today was yet another Independence Day spent abroad.  And what a memorable one it was!  Like our trip to the Caucasus mountains, I was not initially thrilled over the prospect of a vineyard tour and wine tasting.  I am neither a wine drinker nor a wine culture enthusiast and figured I would rather spend by precious time in Georgia in Tbilisi, on the ground, talking with and learning about Georgians.  This is how I felt before we traveled to the Caucuses and I learned for that trip that Georgia has much more to offer than Tbilisi.  Thea's enthusiasm, as well, was infectious. So, after an even earlier than normal run about the Hippodrome, Kristin and I excitedly joined our entire group on a tour bus headed to eastern Georgia and the wine country.

Our first stop was the convent (and monastery?) at at Bodbe.  The church in Bodbe is the traditional burial place of St. Nino, the woman who brought Georgia Christianity.  She reportedly came from present-day Turkey and walked about Georgia in her bare feet, spreading the good news.  Nino is revered in Georgia and seemingly half the women in this country are named for her. 

The grounds and surrounding view from the church were exquisite.  See my pictures on Facebook!  I have never been to Greece of Italy but the many tall Cyprus trees and low stone fences gave the place that old world charm you would expect from those Western European countries.

Naturally, the property has a holy spring!  We descended the mountaintop by a long staircase and found the spring a hive of commercial activity.  Several lari (the Georgian currency) will get you a white tunic and the opportunity to submerge yourself three times in the frigid water.  A few in our group did it, including our professor and trusty translator Katie.  As for me, I was satisfied with drinking from the water, spilling continuously from a spigot separate (!) from the bathing water.  It was cold and delicious.

Our trip to the winery and vineyard in Sighnaghi was magical.  The owner and "mother" of the wine--John--gave us a tour and treated us to the most delicious meal I've had here in Georgia.  The bread: grown from their own home-grown wheat and proofed not with industrial yeast but with fermented wine by-product. The sunflower oil, which was featured in all the dishes: grown and pressed on the premises.  The meal: fried eggplant, roasted rosemary potatoes, wax beans, Lobio (brown beans), Mediterranean salad, veal stew.  The winery building: rustic, picturesque, filled with art, books, rugs, artifacts, and bottles of wine.  We were treated to a performance of polyphonic singing.  This type of singing features four voices in harmony within the parameters of a very specific melodic scale (I couldn't tell you which) and is accompanied by specific instruments and a drum.  Several among the group of singers leapt up and began to dance as well!  Loved it.

Marvelous day!  Long.  We are still on the bus and it is 10:30pm. 

3 July 2013: Jamila in Georgia

I am an Egyptian magnate.  Or possibly it is the other way around?  Either way, the country and its people are rooted in my soul and have been since I visited there the first time in 1999.

Kristin and I easily found the Tbilisi Catholic Church (ha! after asking at least five people "sad aris catolicki inglesia?").  Oddly enough it was right where we expected to find the puppet theatre last week and, not finding it, had to scramble for a taxi to get to the REAL theatre location on tine). Tbilisi is not THAT large of a town and, in these 10 days, I've gotten around it a bit!

We found the church packed with Egyptians.  Kristin went right in while I chatted out front with some women and their children.  I learned a lot from them including from which area of Egypt most of the immigrants are coming (Southern Egypt where the Muslim Brotherhood have a strong hold and are making life very difficult for Christians) and what they think about life in Georgia (it is enjoyable--but the rent is too high).  These conversations were extremely fulfilling and I hope to report more on them here when I have some more time.  Two things to note: 1) While I stood on the steps talking to these ladies one of the men I interviewed two days ago passed by and called out to me ("Jamila!"); 2) I love the singing and incense from the Coptic service.  So reminiscent of my time in Egypt as well as the old city of Jerusalem.  I took an audio clip that I can hopefully post here some how, some day.

Our first lecture of the day was on social media.  While enjoyable I will not write about it here.  The information was fairly straightforward and intuitive.

Our second lecture was at government office where the Deputy Minister of Integration spoke to us.  I will have to save the background on the Abkhazians and Ossetians for a night when I am writing before midnight but for me the most enlightening aspect was finally understanding just why the conflict exists.  It is not an ethnic conflict, although the Abkhazians and Ossetians do have a different language and culture (historically) from the Georgians.  It appears that the conflict truly was generated by (definitely) Russian leaders and (likely) Georgian leaders.  Russian wants to drive a wedge between these two autonomous regions and Georgia in order to gain influence and power over Georgia.  Georgia wants to assert its national identity and sovereignty vis-a-vis Russia.  The conflict seems to have little or nothing to do with actual differences in ethnicity or identity.

Kristin and I had plenty of opportunity to reflect and discus this topic this evening with our host, Thea, and her (our!) friends Georgi and Nino.  Georgi invited us to his country home (a "dacha" in Russian) and treated us to a fabulous time.  We picked apricots, toured his beautiful home, ate a delicious meal, and enjoyed great conversation over dessert in front of a fire.  What could be better?  Please look at my photo of Georgi's home on Facebook.  You will notice the fabulous outdoor staircase.  Most Georgian homes (not apartments but single family homes) have their staircase connecting the floors OUTSIDE.  Georgi's water (from a well) and toilet (squatter!) are also outside.

Wonderful day!! Wonderful wonderful day.

2 July 2013: Poor Chechnya

My post today, alas, will be brief.  I will be rising early tomorrow so as to attend the Egyptian Coptic service early tomorrow morning with the hope of gaining greater understanding of the Coptic migration to Georgia.

Today we met at the Georgian Institute of Public Affairs where a VERY knowledgable and YOUNG man gave us a brilliant summary and analysis of geopolitics in the Caucasus.  Most intriguing to me was his brief on the issues in the autonomous areas in the North Caucasus in Russia--including Chechnya.  I was reminded today that Chechnya, unlike Georgia, was never a Soviet Republic.  It never had the organizational structure that existed in Georgia before the Bolshevik occupation and so was never made a republic of the USSR.  Thus, when the USSR started to collapse and the republics started to secede, Chechnya was not in any position to leave (and nor was Russia willing to allow it).  Our lecturer also assured us that while Russia considers the Chechnya conflict as finished, it is clear from the occasional (but horrific) attacks on Russian civilians by Chechans that the conflict is far from over.

I spent some time discussing my research with my professor and she encouraged me to continue looking into Coptic immigration to Georgia.  Thus far, I've met with some Egyptians in cafes and heard their stories. Today I met, along with Kristin, a prominent Georgian scholar at Ilya State University who specializes in the Orthodox Church.  He has publically criticized the Church for its role in politics and has been attacked by the Church for speaking out.  Kristin wants to meet with him specifically to learn more about the influence of the Church in government and the implications of this for Georgia's democratization process, but I tagged along to ask him about the Copts.  As it turned out he knows very little about the Egyptian immigrants but did explain why the Georgian Orthodox Church ones not allow Copts to participate in Church services.  Apparently the Georgiah Church and the Egyptian Church have some differences in belief relating to the nature of Christ.  This difference is the explanation given by the Church to explain why Copts may not attend Orthodox services but, instead, must meet all together once a week on Wednesday mornings in a Catholic Church.  It is to that service I intend to go tomorrow.

Also, today:
-Visited the restaurant at which we will eat our closing feast on Saturday (pictures on Facebook reflect the view from the restaurant balcony).
-Tried once again to visit Anchiskhati Church (6th century and home to the famous Georgian polyphonic singing).  Found it this time but spent too long sitting at a nearby cafe processing our notes and discussing the issues so that by the time we made it the ten feet across to the church, we found it closed!

1 July 2013: To NATO or not to NATO: it's not even a question

Georgia loves NATO but does NATO love Georgia?  We explored this topic today at the NATO Liaison Office with the Liaison himself, William Lahue.  Georgia wants stability and security and it thinks NATO can help it reach that objective.  As I have mentioned here before, Georgia fears another Russian occupation and seeks the protection NATO membership will provide.  To prove its resolve, Georgia has contributed a large number of troops to ISAF, second only to the US.  And yet Georgia has not yet managed to "buy" its way into the club.  Against Georgia is its distance from other NATO countries (while it borders NATO member Turkey, Georgia would be the most eastern nation in the organization), its recent instability, its poor relationship with Russia and, relatedly, Russia's fierce opposition to Georgia's acceptance into NATO (Russia may not be a NATO nation but it still has clout within the organization, especially with Germany).

Pursuant to my thesis research, I asked the liaison about Georgia-Iran relations.  He told us that Georgia has a visa free regime with Iran but this may not last for long as Georgia's relationship with Iran is being strained.  First of all, Iranians are buying up a large tracts of property in Georgia.  Georgia is also concerned with Iran's unfriendly policies against Azerbaijan; Azeris are rejecting Iran's attempt to build madrasahs (fundamentalist religious schools) and Iran is growing increasingly belligerent with Azerbaijan.  Azerbaijan is a close neighbor to Georgia and the two enjoy historical and economic ties within the region.   A final concern: if Iran breaks out its nuclear weapons US-friendly Georgia could be a target.

A bit about my other research interest that ties in to my activities this afternoon.  Thanks to the director of American Councils I located a local hangout for Egyptian Copts (Orthodox Christians) and asked several about their stories.  I wanted to know why they had left Egypt, why they chose Georgia, how long they intended to stay, what they hoped to do here, and under which conditions would they return to Egypt.  Their answers were unsurprising: all spoke of the lack of human rights in Egypt, particularly under Morsi (the "lier")'s rule.  None of them condemned Egyptian Muslims as a group but the lack of policies guaranteeing Egyptians Christians the same rights as Muslims.  They gave story after story of the wrongs they suffered.  They universally wanted to immigrate to the US or Europe but visas, they vowed, are impossible to get.  Georgia, however, has an open visa policy and welcomes Egyptians.  They may legally work here and the men I interviewed all claimed that they do not feel marginalized or discriminated against in Georgia.  The interviews were fun--and I got to speak about my beloved Egypt in my beloved Arabic.  Jamila was happy.

So, which thesis to choose?  Reader, help!  Read on and if you can even UNDERSTAND my thoughts please feel free to comment:

1) Georgia and migrants (possible thesis: Do Georgia's immigration policies have positive implications for its economy/democratization/regional and/or global position?)

2) Georgia and Iran (possible thesis: Can Georgia balance its interests with America and Iran and/or remain neutral between America and Iran, and how can Georgia be an example to emerging nations of neutrality and/or independence from global power politics?)

The other events of my day were as follows:

-Early morning jog around the hippodrome.  

-Washed my hair!  Second time in nine days. :-)

-Arrived on time for a crash course in Georgian.  Wish we'd had it our first day but it was great nonetheless.

-Group lunch.  I really like Lobio--a delicious bean soup served in a large ceramic mug with very hard unsweetened cornbread.  Yum!

-Thea had something else she had to do at the last moment so Kristin and I decided to seek out Egyptian Copt handouts--and found some!  After I interviewed people in three different cafes I joined Kristin for some reflection and planning.  

-Returned to Thea's by 9pm.  We all worked together to cook up some Pilmeni (Russian dumplings) and salad.  And oh--lavash with Nutella.  Double yum!